Janja Garnbret wins Lead Climbing World Championships

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Slovenian Janja Garnbret has taken Gold at today’s finals in Hachioji, Japan. After a hard fought competition the incredible Janja Garnbret has won back the title after taking second last year. This win comes after her incredible performance two days ago here she took her second consecutive Gold in Bouldering.

The incredible season that she has had brings the following achievements:

  • Janja is the first woman to take two Bouldering Climbing World Championships in a row.
  • The first woman to have won two events in one Climbing World Championship competition.
  • She now has the most overall victories in all events combined between the World Cup and the World Championships history, overtaking Sandrine Levet as well as Jakob Schubert in the Men’s.
  • Garnbret is now well on track to becoming the first women to have won two combined Climbing World Championships in a row. In the Men’s – Sean McColl of Canada managed this awesome feat three in a row in 2012, 2014, and 2016

You can read our full Janja Garnbret profile with her training regime, diet, gear and more here.

Slovenian teammate Mia Krampl took second with 39 moves vs Janja’s 43. Ai Mori of Japan took third with one less hold than Mia after a great battle. Japan should be proud of their results so far on home territory and should expect more with big names like Tomoa Narasaki in the Men’s event.

Korean Chaehyun Seo took fourth after getting tangled up in beta halfway up the route. The problem itself was set brilliantly and featured some great moves, real body beta was needed and the competitors almost had to everything perfectly unless they got themselves into a tough position. Akiyo Noguchi took fifth for Japan and Jessica Pilz of Austria come in sixth.

The Men’s finals are now underway and you can watch live footage direct from Hachioji below. Once the event is over this video will show the entire Women’s and Men’s finals video.

Watch Janja Garnbret Lead Climbing World Championships replay

No competitors from the USA or Great Britain managed to get into the Finals, only Sean McColl of Canada made finals for the Men. Brooke Raboutou for USA came closest with 15th and Great Britain’s Shauna Coxsey 17th in Women’s. In Men’s William Bosi was 17th for Great Britain, and Sean Bailey 21 for the United States.

With four entrants in the top 10 as well as taking 1st and 2nd place, the Slovenian team are doing incredibly. It would be interesting to see the training and coaching that these competitors are getting before the events and on their way to the Olympics in 2020.