The dominant Slovenian Janja Garnbret once again proves her Bouldering superiority with IFSC Gold at the IFSC Climbing World Championships. She takes the Bouldering Gold today, and is expected to do very well in the upcoming Lead – possibly leading to a Combined win.
Today is the second main day of the IFSC Climbing World Championships and features the Men’s and Women’s Bouldering Semi’s and Final’s. Lead Semis and Finals will be on Thursday 15th and then Speed Finals on Saturday 17th in Hachiji, Japan
On the first problem W1 only Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi of Japan, and Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain got a top. Ievgeniia Kazbekova managed a bonus on this.
The W2 problem stumped everyone. The hard parkour problem saw no-one even getting to the bonus zone until Janja Garnbret came in at the last moment. Janja stuck the hard start then powered through and skipped two holds to go for another dyno, getting her in perfect position for the final hold. This extra top puled Garnbret well ahead of the others for the win.
In W3 both Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Ievgeniia Kazbekova got a top but no-one else took even a zone. W4 finished off with a powerful volume problem and Shauna Coxsey started the round with a flash straight off the bat. Miho Nonaka and Nanako Kura of Japan both got to the bonus zone on their first attempt but got no further. Akiyo Noguchi came in and flashed the problem, taking her to 1st place with only Garnbret to go. Immediately Garnbret took the zone to take 1st place, and finished the problem with a flash – solidifying her win for this year.
Janja Garnbret took first in every single event at IFSC Bouldering World Cup leading up to this. This marks the first time any competitor would take every event for themselves. The competition was strong, especially from the Japanese team who saw three competitors in finals. The 2020 Olympics are shaping up to be a stacked event that will bring climbing firmly into the mainstream.
Strong climbers like Petra Klingler, Alannah Yip, Chaehyun Seo and others didn’t get past the semis. Of Team USA only Kyra Condie managed to get through to semi-finals – Ashima Shiraishi, Alex Johnson, Natalia Grossman, Brooke Rabatou, and Sienna Kopf all struck out in qualifications.
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