Who Is Kyra Condie? – Staying Strong After Spinal Surgery

| , ,

Who Is Kyra Condie?

Kyra Condie is one of the four US Olympians who’ll be competing in Sport Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics 2021. She’s one of the strongest of the US National team and has battled through an operation that left 10 of her vertebrae fused together.

Kyra lives with her pro climber friend Allison Vest in Salt Lake City, Utah where the US National training facility is. She spends most of her training working at their gym and is also on the Board of Directors for USA Climbing. Outside of climbing she is training to become a veterinarian and studied at the University of Minnesota.

Kyra Condie is sponsored by Ocun shoes, Mountain Hardwear, Gnarly Nutrition, Penguin Fingers, Persil, and Asus. She also has session plans available on the Tempo and MyClimb apps. She been featured on NBC and seen in the pages of Rolling Stone, Sports Illustrated and Vogue.

How Old Is Kyra Condie?

Kyra Condie is 25 years old and was born on June 5th, 1996.

Kyra Condie Height

Kyra Condie is 5 foot 4 inches or 163 tall.

Kyra Condie Ape Index

Kyra Condie has a huge +4″ ape index! That means her wingspan is 4 inches longer than her height.

When Did Kyra Condie Start Climbing?

Kyra Condie started climbing when she was 11 years old when her family took her to the local climbing gym. She used to live in St Paul, Minnesota and started at the Vertical Endeavors gym, joining their youth team. It was only a year later where she started to get back back and realized she had scoliosis.

Kyra Condie Scoliosis + Back Surgery

When she was about 12 she started to experience severe back pain and started talking to coaches, then eventually a doctor. She was diagnosed with severe idiopathic scoliosis. Essentially her spine started to curve in the middle in an “S” shape to a severe degree without a known reason.

As a result she was told she may never be able to climb again and would need surgery. She went through with some intense surgery at 13 but got straight back to climbing after healing. The surgery fused 10 of her vertebrae together to provide support and stop further movement.

She still has a 25 degree curve in her spine and cannot twist past a certain angle. As a result she relies on her strength for a lot of moves because of this decrease in flexibility. You can see how this affects her in this video.

Is Kyra Condie In The Olympics?

Yes, Kyra Condie will be competing the first appearance of Sport Climbing at the Olympics Tokyo 2021. She qualified by getting into the finals of the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse at the end of December in 2019. At the same time her Team USA teammate Nathaniel Coleman also qualified.

Will Kyra Condie Win The Olympics?

Kyra is a great competitor and probably won’t do badly – but she probably won’t end up getting at a medal at the Olympics in 2021. We’d expect her to do well in the Bouldering round with her strength and experience.

However, in Lead she hasn’t put up the best results in the past. Speed is also a struggle for Kyra but she’s not at the bottom of the list that will be up at Tokyo. However, all this being said she could perform incredibly and there is an outside chance of a medal. For the USA the most likely athlete to get a medal is probably Brooke Raboutou.

Read all about Sport Climbing In Tokyo 2021
+ Meet the rest of team USA
Brooke RaboutouNathaniel ColemanColin Duffy

Kyra Condie Training Program, Diet + Nutrition

Kyra is a dedicated training nut and a has a really detailed training plan. It involves a good amount of climbing but a lot of the climbing training staples – steep woodies, hangboards, and campusing.

She focuses on power and strength workouts a lot which involve hard work on a steep training board using wooden holds, the “woodie”. It allows climbers to work hard moves without much grip, relying on your strength and power to pull up. The same goes for campus board training which focuses on sheer power of pulling – no feet involved.

Kyra mixes this all in while training to become a veterinarian. She’s done most of the school and now needs to log hours working with animals – so this takes up a good chunk of her time. She is focused on training for the Olympics right now but plans to come back to Vet work after Tokyo.

Condie has been vegetarian for a few years now and enjoys the diet. She focuses on cooking all of her owns meals and snacking before sessions to keep energy levels up. She also loves a good Aeropress coffee every morning. There is a Training Beta podcast episode on Kyra’s training – focusing on her hangboarding and campusing routines. Listen to it here.

Kyra Condie Competition Results

Kyra has won a few National competitions, including five wins at the USA Youth Nationals. She’s also the 2019 US Combined National Champion. Kyra has competed at two World Cup final events and climbed at many IFSC World Cups and Championships.

One of her big achievements was taking 1st at the IFSC Pan-American Championships in 2018. She’s also take as high as 5th at the Vail World Cup in 2018.

Kyra Condie Outdoor Climbing

Kyra Condie trying Deep Water Soloing in Vietnam

What Climbing Shoes Does Kyra Condie Wear?

Kyra wears Ocun Nitro or other similar Ocun shoes like the Oxi S. They’re both a down-turned but supple performance bouldering shoes with a lot of rubber wrapped around the toe and heel for weird holds and big volumes.

Kyra Condie Instagram + Social Media

Kyra has a popular Instagram page where she posts a huge amount of training updates and fun social media stuff. She lives with Allison Vest and together they have a massive following on their tiktok profile @climbingroommates. Kyra also has her own website.