After the IFSC Toulouse Qualifying round on Friday, most of the remaining Olympic invites had been settled. Only one place from this event was still to be given – and the battle was between two teammates. The battle for the last Olympic invite would be between two Slovenian climbers – Mia Krampl and Lučka Rakovec.
Each country (aside from Japan with one extra) is allowed to win up to two places each per gender. Slovenian phenomenon Janja Garnbret took the first invite for her country in incredible style at the World Championships. In this Invitational both Mia Krampl and Lučka Rakovec qualified and got through to the Finals. All other competitors – aside from Japanese climbers, who had filled their quota – had already got the invite place because of their placing. As there was only one Slovenian spot left, it was now almost purely a competition between the two incredibly talented teenagers.
In Speed the clear winner was Iuliia Kaplina of Russia who was the fastest in each round, with her best time at 8.057. This isn’t anywhere near her personal or competition best though. Without Aries Susanti Rahayu or YiLing Song to battle against the winner was almost predetermined. Lučka Rakovec came 7th and Mia Kramply had a slight lead at 6th – an important ranking difference.
In Bouldering the Japanese climbers came out highest. A good mix of styles of boulders similar to the men’s with a delicate co-ordination slab, an overhang on the second, and an interesting modern style co-ordination move set on the third. Futaba Ito took convincing 1st with only two tries to top the first and second boulders, and a flash on the third. Ai Mori similarly did very well but took an extra try on the first boulder for 2nd place. Lučka Rakovec also managed three tops with nine non-stop attempts on the first but then two flashes! Laura Rogora managed two flashes and no zone on the second. Mia Krampl unfortunately only got one zone to come in 7th in Bouldering.
In the deciding Lead round every hold counted. From the competitions in the Combined style we have seen so far, the Lead always seems to be the determining factor if the Speed results are as skewed as they have been. This means any mistakes in Lead for the top competitors are almost always mean huge point differences. Also vice versa this means if you can have an outstanding one off lead performance you could take the whole comp.
Laura Rogora managed a decent fifth place in Lead with 31+ but this wouldn’t help her final placings. Ai Mori managed to place 4th in Lead with a 31+ and got into 5th overall. This hold woul be the same falling place for three climbers, and time would determine the placing. Futaba Ito didn’t put in the best performance in Lead, slipping awkwardly on a heel hook into a dyno but overall still managed to get 7th which would give her 1st overall in the Final. In a desperate battle Mia Krampl managed to get 1st in Lead by getting to the 32nd hold, with team mate Lučka Rakovec failing just below at 31+. Julie Chanourdie managed 31+ as well but beat Lučka, Ai, and Laura to take 2nd in Lead.
Mia Krampl Wins Olympic Invite For Slovenia
Mia Krampl in third ended up walking away with the Slovenian invite to the 2021 Olympic Climbing event in Tokyo in an incredibly close but very well deserved win. An excellent competition and both of the climbers finished out a stressful day in great style.
IFSC Toulouse 2019 Final Results
1st – Futaba Ito – Japan
2nd – Julia Chanourdie – France
3rd – Mia Krampl – Slovenia
4th – Lučka Rakovec – Slovenia
5th – Ai Mori – Japan
6th – Iuliia Kaplina – Russia
7th – Kyra Condie – USA
8th – Laura Rogora – Italy
Watch the highlights video for the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 below to see how the competitors got on.
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