The IFSC Pan-American Championships are finally here. Probably the most eagerly awaited of the five continental championships, as this is the final chance for American and Canadian athletes to earn their qualifying spot at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.
Alannaha Yip of Canada took 1st place and got the last pan-american Olympic spot! See how it happened by checking the finals results here. Congratulations to Alannah. It was a tough competition and she didn't get the best start during pre-quals and then qualifiers.
The event is being held at Sender One in Los Angeles - a world class climbing venue. It features massive 50 foot high lead wall, a huge and varied bouldering area with regular setting, and "Sender City" which is a clip-n-climb autobelay area with more "fun climb" style walls aimed at kids.
The competition itself is taking place over five days. The full schedule can be found here. Pre-Qualifying rounds took place on the 25th, and only the top 20 from pre-qualifying go into the qualifying rounds, with a limit of four from each country per gender category. Results below.
There are over 20 starters for each gender category. The USA has five men and five women, Canada has two men and five women.The current best way to get scoring is the IFSC WC Series app on android or iOS.
How Many Olympic Invites Are Available?
Only one place is available per gender category - meaning very stiff competition. Sean McColl already has one spot for Canada though there is still space for another male. Alannah Yip seems like the most likely Canadian Woman to get the last spot in this event.
For the USA there are no spots left for Women as both Kyra Condie and Brooke Raboutou have qualified. Nathaniel Coleman just squeezed in to the Olympic Spot so there is still one place left for USA Men. Sean Bailey, Colin Duffy, Zach Galla, and Zander Waller all got through to the qualifying rounds placing 2nd to 5th one after another. It will be very tight competition between these team mates and the pressure will definitely be felt here.
IFSC Pan-American Championships Pre Qualification Results
The 20 for each category that go through from pre-qualifiers to qualifiers are in bold below. Joe Goodacre and Callie Close of the USA didn't go through as only four from each country can move on.
1st - Carlos Granja - Ecuador
2nd - Sean Bailey - USA
3rd - Colin Duffy - USA
4th - Zach Galla - USA
5th - Zander Waller - USA
6th - Joe Goodacre - USA
7th - Danny Valencia - Ecuador
8th - Cesar Grosso - Brazil
9th - Felipe Ho Foganholo - Brazil
10th - Santiago Garcia - Argentina
11th - Ronny Escobar - Chile
12th - Hector Lopez Valdez - Mexico
13th - Diego Lequerica - Peru
14th - José Ramón Santos Buhl - Mexico
15th - Brennan Doyle - Canada
16th - Héctor Adrián Martínez Cordero - Mexico
17th - Benjamin Ayala - Chile
18th - Manuel Escobar- Venezuela
19th - Jason Holowach - Canada
20th - Pedro Ferreira Nicoloso - Brazil
21st - Jean Ouriques - Brazil
22nd - Alejandro Martinez Cordero - Mexico
1st - Valentina Aguado - Argentina
2nd - Leslie Romero - Venezuela
3rd - Alejandra Contreras - Chile
4th - Norah Chi - USA
5th - Andrea Rojas - Ecuador
6th - Emma Hunt - USA
7th - Lauren Bair - USA
8th - Sienna Kopf - USA
9th - Alannah Yip - Canada
10th - Rebecca Frangos - Canada
11th - Carmen Contreras - Chile
12th - Callie Close - USA
13th - Muykuay Silva - Chile
14th - Allison Vest - Canada
15th - Bianca Magalhaes de Castro - Brazil
16th - Thais Makino Shiraiwa - Brazil
17th - Arantza Fernández Gutierrez - Mexico
18th - Luana Riscado - Brazil
19th - Valeria Macias Ferreira - Mexico
20th - María Fernanda González Rámirez - Mexico
21st - Arantza Luna Velasco - Mexico
22nd - Hellen Christina Da Silva - Brazil
23rd - Noelia Venet Gallegos - Peru
24th - Rebeca Consuelo Aguilar Chaw - Peru
25th - Sofia Alejandra Herrera Vega Centeno - Peru
Did Not Start - Carola Castro Barbaran - Peru
IFSC Pan-American Championships Qualification Results
The Women's qualifiers took place on Thursday 27th with Emma Hunt of the USA taking 1st place in Speed, followed by Andrea Rojas of Ecuador 2nd. In Bouldering it was an interestingly close set of results as four climbers got four tops and four zones. Valentina Aguado of Argentina managed all four in only six attempts (!) to take 1st, with Alejandra Contreras of Chile a close second, then Rebecca Frangos of Canada 3rd.
Emma Hunt set a new US Women's Speed Record with 8.05 seconds in the speed qualification!
In Lead it was Lauren Bair of USA who managed to get the highest with 52+. There was another instance of one hard move with the move from 45 to 46 taking five climbers down, all getting a score of 45+. Norah Chi of USA go the lowest time and took second, and Alannah Yip 3rd with Rebecca Frangos of Canada on the same hold with a lower time meaning a 4th place in Lead.
The totaled scores mean that Lauren Bair of USA, Alejandra Contreras of Chile, Valentina Aguado of Argentina, Norah Chi and Emma Hunt of USA, as well as Alannah Yip of Canada will go the finals on Saturday 29th. Names in bold below of the eight that go through to Finals.
The Men's Qualifying finished on Friday. In Speed Carlos Granja and Danny Valencia of Ecuador came first and second respectively, with Zach Galla of the USA third. The Bouldering round saw a brilliant set of challenging problems with Sean Bailey of the USA getting four tops and four zones to take first, then Zander Walla also of the USA taking second with three tops and four zones. Zach Galla also of the USA took third.
In the final round - Lead - Colin Duffy of the USA took 1st with the only top. A really really impressive win that just edged him into the top three qualifiers overall. Sean Bailey was second with 58+, way ahead of the rest of the pack. In 3rd was Danny Valencia of Ecuador with 47.
In the end Sean Bailey, Zach Galla and Colin Duffy of the USA took the top three qualification places but all four guys from the USA are in finals! Brennan Doyle of Canada unfortunately came in just outside of the top eight.
The top eight from each category go forward to the finals - highlighted in bold below. Women's Finals are Saturday 29th Feb and Men's finals are Sunday 1st March. The scoring is the climber's placing in each category, multiplied together - lowest number wins. i.e. Lauren Bair was 5th in Speed, 4th Bouldering, 1st Lead so 5 x 4 x 1 = 20.
Women's Qualification Results
1st - Lauren Bair - USA - 20
2nd - Alejandra Contreras - Chile - 36
3rd - Valentina Aguado - Argentina - 54
4th - Norah Chi - USA - 112
5th - Emma Hunt - USA - 130
6th - Alannah Yip - Canada - 168
7th - Andrea Rojas - Ecuador - 176
8th - Rebecca Frangos - Canada - 192
9th - Sienna Kopf - USA - 264
10th - Carmen Contreras - Chile - 750
11th - Allison Vest - Canada - 882
12th - Leslie Romero - Venezuela - 1500
13th - Muykuay Silva - Chile - 2016
14th - Arantza Fernández Gutierrez - Mexico - 2431
15th - Thais Makino Shiraiwa - Brazil - 2448
16th - Bianca Magalhaes de Castro - Brazil - 2550
17th - Valeria Macias Ferreira - Mexico - 4212
18th - Arantza Luna Velasco - Mexico - 5054
19th - María Fernanda González Rámirez - Mexico - 5472
DNS - Luana Riscado - BRA - Did Not Start
Men's Qualification Results
1st - Sean Bailey - USA - 14
2nd - Zach Galla - USA - 45
3rd - Colin Duffy - USA - 55
4th - Carlos Granja - Ecuador - 56
5th - Danny Valencia - Ecuador - 78
6th - Zander Waller - USA - 80
7th - José Ramón Santos Buhl - Mexico - 390
8th - Cesar Grosso - Brazil - 396
9th - Brennan Doyle - Canada - 660
10th - Felipe Ho Foganholo - Brazil - 810
11th - Jason Holowach - Canada - 952
12th - Manuel Escobar - Venezuela - 1064
13th - Diego Lequerica - Peru - 1792
14th - Héctor Adrián Martínez Cordero - MEX - 2496
15th - Hector LOPEZ VALDEZ - Mexico - 3240
16th - Benjamin Ayala - Chile - 3240
17th - Jean Ouriques - Brazil - 3420
18th - Santiago GARCIA - Argentina - 4800
19 - Pedro Ferreira Nicoloso - Brazil - 5491
DNS - Ronny Escobar - Chile - Did Not Start
IFSC Pan-American Championships Final Results
The finals will be on the 1st of March for Men's. We will update this article as results come in.
In the Women's Finals we started with Speed in the head to hear format. Andrea Rojas of Ecuador took 1st with 8.45 seconds, Valentina Aguado of Argentina coming in second. Alejandra Contreras took third and Rebecca Frangos of Canada fourth.
In Bouldering it was Alannah Yip of Canada that managed to pull ahead with the most tops in the least attempts - meaning she went in to Lead with the lowest total score (a good thing). She was the only climber to manage three tops. Emma Hunt came in 2nd with two tops and three zones, and Alejandra Contreras third with the same though more attempts.
In Lead Lauren Bair managed the only top of route in an amazing show. Due to what we knew of the scoring, Alannah Yip just had to make the 53rd hold to get second or third in Lead (she got third eventually) - to win the entire event. She managed this, getting a 53+ for attempting to make 54.
Alannah Yip of Canada wins the Olympics invite!
This means she'll be off top Tokyo in 2020 with Sean McColl! Read our full article on Alannah Yip getting an Olympic invite.
Colin Duffy gets the Olympic Invite! This article will be updated very soon with full results.
Women's Final Results
1st - Alannah Yip - Canada - 15
2nd - Alejandra Contreras - 36
3rd - Lauren Bair - USA - 36
4th Andrea Rojas - Ecuador - 56
5th - Rebecca Frangos - Canada - 80
6th - Norah Chi - USA - 80
7th - Valentina Aguado - 84
8th - Emma Hunt - USA - 112
Ties in placing for 2nd/3rd and 5th/6th were decided by Qualifiers placing
Men's Final Results
This article will be updated very soon with full results.
The full event page with results from the qualifying and final rounds can be found here.
Watch IFSC Pan-American Championships Live
You can watch the finals live stream below and as a video after the event has finished. They will also be broadcast live on the Panam sports channel in some Pan-American countries. CBC Online will be broadcasting live online for Canada. The NBC Olympic Channel will be showing the finals after the event with the Women’s final on 1st March at 19.00 and 2nd March at 12.30, and the Men’s Final on 2nd March at 18.00 and 3rd March at 12.30.
IFSC Pan-American Championships Men's Finals Live Stream
IFSC Pan-American Championships Women's Finals Live Stream + Video
The event is being sponsored by the toy company Mattel - who are releasing a Climbing Barbie to tie in with the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Keep up to date with the Olympics Climbing coverage for the last few qualifying events by bookmarking this site (ctrl + D) or following us on instagram and twitter.