Colin Duffy has just won an invite to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics! We’ve been following the IFSC Pan-American Championships 2020 the past few days and it’s been non-stop. Five days of competition came to a head today with the Male Finals.
Yesterday Alannah Yip won her Olympic invite for Canada. She’ll be the only Female Canadian in Climbing at Tokyo 2020 though will be joined by Sean McColl. America has now managed to fill all of it’s Olympic slots with Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie, and Brooke Raboutou also in attendance.
In the Speed round Zach Galla took first in good style, closely followed by Carlos Granja and Danny Valenciana of Ecuador. Sean Bailey came last in a bit of an unexpected result – though Speed Climbing really isn’t any of these climber’s main discipline. With the lack of long term training and the nature of Speed, falls and bad starts can be massive issues for any climber
The Bouldering round seemed to go much faster than was expected as the Americans dominated. They all climbed the three boulders – the only differences between 1 to 2 attempts which all seemed like tiny slips. Of the other four competitors two got one top, and two only two zones.
Zander Waller managed three flashes to take first – going into Lead with a low overall score of 6. Colin Duffy took second with just one extra attempt to go into Lead with 10. Sean Bailey came third with one more attempt the Colin, and Zach Galla fourth. Zach had the lowest overall score of 4 and Sean the highest of the USA guys with 24. This didn’t leave him much chance unless the his US team mates massively under-performed.
The Lead Climbing round had some great setting. A pumpy start with large volumes, including a lot of body tension problems into some insecure dynamic movements and crimpy sidepulls.
In order, the climbers coming out got progressively higher until Sean Bailey. He was the first to top – though he wasn’t in with a chance for the 1st because of the earlier Speed result and a slip in Bouldering. Colin Duffy came after and had to get a top – ALSO in under the time Sean Bailey got.
Luckily he managed to do both with a crazy top to take 1st overall for the Olympic invite. Massive congratulations to Colin Duffy!
Read our full article and scoring for the IFSC Pan-American Championsips 2020 and make sure to follow us on instagram and twitter to keep up to date on the next Olympic qualification events. Full results from the IFSC page.