What an event! The adidas Rockstars 2019 results are in and one country is really showing it’s strength. As ever the boulders set were top quality and we really appreciate how much thought and effort goes in from the setters. Adidas really steps up the game with this comp and put the setters in the spotlight as well as taking great care of the competitors.
You can rewatch the entire finals livestream below or scroll down further for the short superfinals video. It’s a high quality event that features Sasha DiGiulian and Liam Lonsdale on commentary, live DJ’s, live bands, and plenty of hype from the crowd. The event is anything but your standard serious comp and the climbers seem to really enjoy the mix up.
Finals saw three boulders set separately for the six Men and six Women that got through. In the modern style on bouldering comps we saw a lot of parkour style problems. Big dynamic moves on awesome looking holds. Lots of dual texture holds were featured as well as – shock horror – a crack problem.
Three Japanese climbers – Yoshiyuki Ogata, Kai Harada, and Kokoro Fujii – qualified to finals, as well as Austrian Florian Klingler, Korean Jongwon Chon, and Gregor Vezonik for Slovenia. Ogata was the only climber to top M1, with four managing M2. Ogata and Klinger then both managed to finish M3 to get through to the superfinal.
The adidas Rockstars superfinal format takes the top two competitors and has them climb the same problem at the same time. The route is set twice on the same angle of wall but so the competitors are just out of eye view of each other. They have a time limit of four minutes and the first person to top out and press a button at the top wins – American Ninja style. It makes for a really interesting and very loud finish. Watch the men’s below or scroll down for the winner.
Yoshiyuki Ogata with two big jumps took the superfinal to win! The 21 year old took third in the IFSC Climbing World Cup Bouldering event in Vail, just under Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki. As well as competing he also coaches for the Japanese youth team.
Again Japan are topping every finalist list with three competitors – Futaba Ito, Ai Mori, and Miho Nonaka. Shauna Coxsey for Great Britain just made it in – fresh off of her third place in the World Champs. Finally, representing Slovenia both Lucka Rakovec and Janja Garnbret – Combined and Bouldering World Champion.
There were some really tricky problems in the Women’s finals, with only six tops between the climbers. Janja Garnbret of course had three of these, continuing her reign of terror over the competitive scene. Seriously though the way that she climbs and sticks big moves one handed is incredible to watch. Futaba Ito managed two tops and one zone, doing very well to make it into the superfinals. Watch the women’s superfinals below or scroll down for the winner.
In a really tense final Futaba Ito took first by really dedicating herself to a horrible sloper hold. Janja took a big jump and to the first bloc but couldn’t get past that sloper, ending up stuck while trying to find a way to move upwards. A great showing from Futaba who took 7th in the Combined and 4th in Bouldering at the 2019 World Champs at only 17 years old.