The Toulouse Combined Finals for the Men today were almost a welcome relief for many climbers. The qualifiers yesterday gave us all of the Olympic invites without any need for better results. The pressure was off but the competition was still on.
Adam Ondra Ill – Still Performs
Star of the show Adam Ondra was ill for this part of the comp. Rumor had spread of his illness and Ondra played up for the crowd throughout. It affected him to the point where he didn’t even try on the Speed. He still managed to pull out a great performance later in Bouldering and Lead despite an uphill battle with his own body.
Kicking off the comp came the Speed round. Bassa Mawem of France again took 1st and the fastest time of the night with 5.727 in the final vs Jan Hojer.
In the Bouldering round we saw some very stumped professional climbers. The first of the three boulders featured a big slab with large block features – and crucially a hand jam. Only Ondra and Meichi Narasaki of Japan got a top. The second featured a slight overhang and a very hard and very specific start. Only Kokoro Fujii of Japan got a top, with three climbers getting no zones at all. In the third we saw four tops from the two dyno problem. Bassa Mawem unfortunately didn’t get even a single zone in the Bouldering. The two Japanese climbers Narasaki and Fujii came in first and second from this round closely followed by Adam Ondra in third.
The Lead route was well set and saw a good spread of difficulty. The 35 hold route featured a bat hang (double toe hook rest) and some big blocks. Nathaniel Coleman of the USA came out first with a running start and ended up nearly topping the route, just two holds and two quickdraws away. Meichi Narasaki fell uncharacteristically low on the Lead at the 26th hold to come in last. Both Nathanial Coleman for the USA and Alberto Ginés Lopéz made 32+, with Kokoro Fujii getting 33+. Ondra managed to pull through his illness and got to the 34th hold – just past the others – and would have made top if not for a route reading error.
IFSC Combined Qualifier Final – Men’s Full Results
1st – Kokoro Fujii – Japan
2nd – Adam Ondra – Czech Republic
3rd – Meichi Narasaki – Japan
4th – Bassa Mawem – France
5th – Jan Hojer – Germany
6th – YuFei Pan – China
7th – Alberto Ginés Lopéz – Spain
8th – Nathaniel Coleman – USA
Full results from IFSC