Five Things Friday – Climbing News – 19th April

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Seb Bouin Makes First Repeat of Ondra 9b Mamichula

Big high grade sport climbing news – French climber Seb Bouin has sent his third 9b! This marks the first repeat of this route and confirms the grade. Adam Ondra set this linkup of the Chris Sharma routes Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana in 2017. French climber Seb Bouin had his Mum working the belay – he often travels with her and she still climbs hard. You can see a previous attempt at Mamichula a month ago in this instagram video and check him sending another 9b Chilam Balam.


Janja Garnbret Storms Ahead in IFSC World Championships

The IFSC World Championships are well under way. Remember that this year’s events lead to 2020 Olympics qualifications and seeding, so the events hold just a little more sway than normal. Janja Garnbret has taken an unchallenged lead with Gold in the first two Bouldering events in Switzerland and Russia. The 20 year old Slovenian topped all four problems in the finals in Meiringen, and flashed all four finals problems in Moscow.

Check the video below to see her incredible style. Garnbret has a great full-on attitude and some nifty moves – including a signature leg throw-out that seems to help with momentum.

In other IFSC World Cup news, Brit Shauna Coxsey took third and then second in the same events. Russia dominated the Speed top 10 but didn’t take first in either Men’s or Women’s. Chongqing is the next event with both Speed and Bouldering taking place. Adam Ondra took first in Bouldering at Switzerland with Tomoa Narasaki second. In Moscow Jernej Kruder (also of Slovenia) came in first, with Ondra second.

Daniel Woods Repeats “The Kingdom” 8C

Ticino in Switzerland is a world class area featuring some of the hardest boulders in the world. Daniel Woods has just made the 4th topout of “The Kingdom“, an 8C put up by Carlo Traversi in 2013. Described as a five move power piece it has also seen quick ascents by Jimmy Webb and Florian Wientjes.

You can see Carlo send this and a tonne of other hard boulders in his film “Heritage” on Vimeo. Woods is wearing his yet to be released Evolv Phantoms, which are tipped to be an incredible high performance bouldering shoe.

Wide Boyz Send 5.14b Crack – Return to Project

To quote Pete Whittaker on the latest first ascent – “I looked up and for some reason I could see 2 cracks ?‍♂️ That’s when I realised the final offwidth was stripping @tompaulrandall ‘s boxer shorts from his ass”.

“Black Mamba” is a new 5.14b route just finished by the Wideboyz – Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall. Their previous 5.14b “Century Crack” project was in the same area of Canyonlands, Utah. This new route is 40 metres of low to the floor crack bouldering through a roof, finished up with 10 metres of roped climbed that finishes in a burly topout.

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The send comes after months of hard training in the infamous crack cellar – seen here being tested by Magnus Midtbø. Also, the boyz are on their Widest form with a recent second ascent of a massive 5.13d/14a roof crack “Necronomicon”. Next up is the big off-width project that the guys have dubbed “The Crucifix” and maybe back to their longer term crack project “Recovery Drink” which has been a struggle.

Easter’s Best Climbing Gear Deals

As a quickie, we’ve listed the best sale items you can buy this Easter. The ATC Guide and Reverso 4 are brilliant multi-purpose belay devices on sale as the 2019 models are out. The Ceuze 9.8 is a sweet workhorse rope with a god carrying bag. The Adjama is a super comfy all-around harness. Lastly the Testarossa Shoe is a high performance model at a massive discount – worth it if you’ve been waiting for summer to upgrade.

Tune in next week for more climbing news!

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