A short one this weekend after the main editor’s laptop was stolen on a climbing trip. Bad times. However, no climbing gear was taken and the day was awesome. Good times. Get ready for the start of the hot season with this week’s top climbing news!
1 – Ethan Pringle onsights Moonlight Buttress
Ethan Pringle, with Tiffany Hensley seconding, has just sent this 1,200ft, 10 pitch trad masterpiece in free style. In his full blog detailing the exploit he explains he had wanted to a giant multi-pitch style onsight for a while, and managed to get together the film crew and permits to do so recently. As ever the spot in Zion is breath-takingly beautiful and a definite bucket list climb for most in the US. Watch the video below.
2 – Ryohei Kameyama repeats No Kpote Only – Charles Albert’s proposed 9A / V17 – Talks about grade
Ryohei Kameyama is a hard boulderer who has been to Font a few times recently. It seems odd that someone from so far away would be the first to complete this problem given it was the second 9A boulder at it’s first finish, but hey.
He assesses the grade as a V16/V17 i.e. 8C+/9A and is careful about his grading, saying “…I don’t climb many hard boulders like v15 or v16. So,I can’t compare with them. Parhaps my grading isn’t correct. I want to challenge other hard boulders!”. It’s worth knowing that Ryohei has only climbed two 8C’s (V15) but also has given the Nalle Hukkataival “Burden Of Dreams” a good few tries and managed to link most of the moves.
3 – Trump signs Public Lands Bill with Climbing protections enshrined in law
While it may seem boring, this is a landmark group of protections that were signed that have a big effect on current and future climbing land use protection going forward. The Rock and Ice article covers most of what was involved, but for a good listen try this “The Run Out” podcast episode about the Bear’s Ears protections and what the Access Fund were trying to do to get these specific protections in place.
It boils down to this: US Law in most states and nationally is based on historic law, so if a law has been passed or a similar ruling has been made previously, new laws and rulings are likely to follow the same way. So these collective laws that include the allowance of fixed anchors in some areas mean it’s more likely going forward that fixed anchors, and climbing being part of what is legally expected in nature reserves and natural areas, are going to be more likely legally standard.
4 – Lynn Hill climbs new 5.13b The Orb in Boulder Canyon
Still kicking ass 25 years on from the first free ascent of the Nose, Lynn tackles a slightly smaller climb in this new 5.13b. The Orb is a short but bouldery and technical problem in boulder Canyon, Colorado and the video shows the full ascent and move sequence as well as soime nice behind the scenes shots. A perfect afternoon watch for weekend pysche.
5 – Team USA chosen for the Olympics circuit
2020 approaches and Team USA will be Margo Hayes, Brooke Raboutou, Ashima Shiraishi, Kyra Condie for the female squad and Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman and Zach Galla for the male. The IFSC circuit is still ongoing and the various pre-Olympics events will be attended with these guys as the top picks. Remember the teams make-up could still change as results come out – but these are the USA’s most likely contenders for Olympics medals as we speak.
Have a super safe weekend and remember your pre-climb safety checks! I may be guilty of a figure of eight through only one belay loop this week…