Seb Bouin Makes First Ascent of “The Dream” 9b – Bolted by Adam Ondra

French climber Seb Bouin has sent “The Dream” 9b in Brar, Albania. Originally bolted around October 2018 by Adam Ondra but never sent. A huge 50 metre line consisting of non-stop tufas with some ‘fun’ looking knee bar rests.

Seb Bouin Makes First Ascent of The Dream 9b - Bolted by Adam Ondra - Climber News
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“The Dream” 9b is of one eleven new routes that Adam Ondra and his team put up when they visited the Brar canyon crag near Tirana, Albania late last year. Adam also bolted and then made the First Ascent of another route called “Four For Glory” 8c at the canyon. You can watch Adam bolting and sending these new routes as well as trying “The Dream” in the video below from 14:05. He only had two days to climb it as part of a massive Balkans road trip.

Adam Ondra on the Balkans trip where he bolted and first tried “The Dream” 9b but didn’t send

With this route Seb Bouin is definitely the hardest outdoor sport climber of 2019. He started trying the route in November but had fallen at the crux a few times after battling wet and slimy tufas, and cutting his finger open on the route. Seb and his team (his awesome Mum is with him!) have been around the capital of Tirana looking for new crags and routes to develop for the last few weeks. Expect more hard routes and development from Seb as this area seems to be full of brilliant, climbable rock.

Bouin also bolted and sent route he called “La Rage d’Adam” earlier this year in the Verdon Gorge, grading it 9b/+. It became the hardest sport route in France – the birthplace of Sport climbing. He also sent the 9b Adam Ondra route “Move” in the Flatanger cave where the hardest sport climb in the world “Silence” 9c is, and repeated “Mamichula” 9b, another Ondra route which is a linkup of Papichulo and Pachamama – two classic 9a+ Chris Sharma routes.

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🇦🇱 Albania Trip 🇦🇱 Our trip is continuing well despite some bad weather and wet tufa. Our main goal during this trip was to develop different crags around the capital Tirana. We started bolting and climbing in the main wall in Brar. Our team exists out of @lowie_l , Franck Andolfato (@couleurcanyon ), my mom and me. We have already bolted more than 10 amazing tufa routes (most part are from the bolting machine Lowie 😁). We have too much to climb now 😁. I tried The Dream 9b project bolted by @adam.ondra (pic 1 and 2). I am quite close to send it, yet I have to play with wet tufas and finger opened. I already fell two times after the crux section, slipping on wet tufa 😥. We have few more days, let see how it's going. We also did prospection and discovering new crags (pic 3). There is a lot to do here. Aller aller ! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 🇦🇱 Trip en Albanie 🇦🇱 Notre trip ce déroule bien malgré un temps capricieux et des colos mouillées. Notre but principal est de développer les falaises aux alentours de Tirana, capital de l'Albanie. Nous avons commencé par équiper et grimper au secteur principal de Brar. Notre équipe est constitué de @lowie_l , Franck Andolfato, ma mère et moi. Nous avons équipé plus d'une dizaine de voies exceptionnelles (la plupart par la machine Lowie 😁). Des colos et encore des colos. Il y a beaucoup trop à faire pour les quelques jours qui nous reste 😀. Je suis aussi pas loin d'enchaîner Thé Dream projet en 9b équipé par @adam.ondra . Je dois cependant jouer avec des colos mouillées et gros steak dans le doigt. Je suis malheureuse déjà tombé deux fois après le crux en zippant sur une colo mouillée. A voir comment cela avance dans les derniers jours. On a aussi pas mal prospecté pour repérer de nouveaux murs. Il y a beaucoup à faire ici. Aller aller ! Pics by Franck Andolfato. Thanks to @blackdiamond and @we_van to support us in this trip.

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🇦🇱 Albania here we are 🇦🇱 After crossing Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia – Herzegovina, and Montenegro, we finaly arrived on Tirana in Albania. We did two climbing stop on the road. We spent one day in Misja Pec (Slovenia) and one day in Vrulja (Croatia). I tried two times "Dugi Rat" 9a+ from @kruderjernej in Vrulja (Pic 2, could you see the last quickdraw in the air?). Yet it was wet, and I need to come back for this one. The view of this crag is amazing 😀. Then we drove straight to Albania. When we arrived on the main crag in Brar, almost everything was desperately wet. I did the most beautiful 8a and 8b of the year 😁. The wind came, and it became to be dry. I had the chance to jump one time on THE DREAM 9b project, bolted by @adam.ondra (pic 1). Objective is also to bolt new king lines. The potential is huge! Let see if the weather is with us 🤙. Thanks to @blackdiamond and @we_van to support us in this adventure. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 🇦🇱 Albanie nous voilà 🇦🇱 Après avoir croisé l'Italie, la Slovénie, la Croatie, la Bosnie Herzégovine, le Monténégro, nous voilà arrivé à destination. Nous avons fait deux stops grimpe sur la route. Un jour en Slovénie à Misja Pec, et un jour en Croatie à Vrulja. Dans ce dernier secteur j'ai essayé la voie Dugi Rat 9a+ de @kruderjernej . Cependant tout était mouillé, il faudra revenir. Ce secteur a une vue exceptionnelle (photo 2 et 5). Quand nous sommes arrivé à la falaise principale de Tirana, Brar, tout était désespérément mouillé aussi. On en a profité pour grimper des voies plus facile, un 8a et 8b exceptionnels. Le vent est venu nous rejoindre et à permis de sécher un peu la falaise. J'en ai profité pour sauter dans THE DREAM projet en 9b, équipé par @adam.ondra (photo 1). Le potentiel est énorme ici, il ne reste plus qu'à équiper 🤙.

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