Seb Bouin Makes First Ascent of "The Dream" 9b - Bolted by Adam Ondra

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French climber Seb Bouin has sent "The Dream" 9b in Brar, Albania. Originally bolted around October 2018 by Adam Ondra but never sent. A huge 50 metre line consisting of non-stop tufas with some 'fun' looking knee bar rests.

Seb Bouin Makes First Ascent of The Dream 9b - Bolted by Adam Ondra - Climber News
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"The Dream" 9b is of one eleven new routes that Adam Ondra and his team put up when they visited the Brar canyon crag near Tirana, Albania late last year. Adam also bolted and then made the First Ascent of another route called "Four For Glory" 8c at the canyon. You can watch Adam bolting and sending these new routes as well as trying "The Dream" in the video below from 14:05. He only had two days to climb it as part of a massive Balkans road trip.

Black Diamond Presents: Adam Ondra—The Balkans Road Trip
Adam Ondra on the Balkans trip where he bolted and first tried "The Dream" 9b but didn't send

With this route Seb Bouin is definitely the hardest outdoor sport climber of 2019. He started trying the route in November but had fallen at the crux a few times after battling wet and slimy tufas, and cutting his finger open on the route. Seb and his team (his awesome Mum is with him!) have been around the capital of Tirana looking for new crags and routes to develop for the last few weeks. Expect more hard routes and development from Seb as this area seems to be full of brilliant, climbable rock.

Bouin also bolted and sent route he called "La Rage d'Adam" earlier this year in the Verdon Gorge, grading it 9b/+. It became the hardest sport route in France - the birthplace of Sport climbing. He also sent the 9b Adam Ondra route "Move" in the Flatanger cave where the hardest sport climb in the world "Silence" 9c is, and repeated "Mamichula" 9b, another Ondra route which is a linkup of Papichulo and Pachamama - two classic 9a+ Chris Sharma routes.

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đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Albania Trip đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Our trip is continuing well despite some bad weather and wet tufa. Our main goal during this trip was to develop different crags around the capital Tirana. We started bolting and climbing in the main wall in Brar. Our team exists out of @lowie_l , Franck Andolfato (@couleurcanyon ), my mom and me. We have already bolted more than 10 amazing tufa routes (most part are from the bolting machine Lowie 😁). We have too much to climb now 😁. I tried The Dream 9b project bolted by @adam.ondra (pic 1 and 2). I am quite close to send it, yet I have to play with wet tufas and finger opened. I already fell two times after the crux section, slipping on wet tufa đŸ˜„. We have few more days, let see how it's going. We also did prospection and discovering new crags (pic 3). There is a lot to do here. Aller aller ! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Trip en Albanie đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Notre trip ce dĂ©roule bien malgrĂ© un temps capricieux et des colos mouillĂ©es. Notre but principal est de dĂ©velopper les falaises aux alentours de Tirana, capital de l'Albanie. Nous avons commencĂ© par Ă©quiper et grimper au secteur principal de Brar. Notre Ă©quipe est constituĂ© de @lowie_l , Franck Andolfato, ma mĂšre et moi. Nous avons Ă©quipĂ© plus d'une dizaine de voies exceptionnelles (la plupart par la machine Lowie 😁). Des colos et encore des colos. Il y a beaucoup trop Ă  faire pour les quelques jours qui nous reste 😀. Je suis aussi pas loin d'enchaĂźner ThĂ© Dream projet en 9b Ă©quipĂ© par @adam.ondra . Je dois cependant jouer avec des colos mouillĂ©es et gros steak dans le doigt. Je suis malheureuse dĂ©jĂ  tombĂ© deux fois aprĂšs le crux en zippant sur une colo mouillĂ©e. A voir comment cela avance dans les derniers jours. On a aussi pas mal prospectĂ© pour repĂ©rer de nouveaux murs. Il y a beaucoup Ă  faire ici. Aller aller ! Pics by Franck Andolfato. Thanks to @blackdiamond and @we_van to support us in this trip.

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đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Albania here we are đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± After crossing Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia - Herzegovina, and Montenegro, we finaly arrived on Tirana in Albania. We did two climbing stop on the road. We spent one day in Misja Pec (Slovenia) and one day in Vrulja (Croatia). I tried two times "Dugi Rat" 9a+ from @kruderjernej in Vrulja (Pic 2, could you see the last quickdraw in the air?). Yet it was wet, and I need to come back for this one. The view of this crag is amazing 😀. Then we drove straight to Albania. When we arrived on the main crag in Brar, almost everything was desperately wet. I did the most beautiful 8a and 8b of the year 😁. The wind came, and it became to be dry. I had the chance to jump one time on THE DREAM 9b project, bolted by @adam.ondra (pic 1). Objective is also to bolt new king lines. The potential is huge! Let see if the weather is with us đŸ€™. Thanks to @blackdiamond and @we_van to support us in this adventure. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± Albanie nous voilĂ  đŸ‡ŠđŸ‡± AprĂšs avoir croisĂ© l'Italie, la SlovĂ©nie, la Croatie, la Bosnie HerzĂ©govine, le MontĂ©nĂ©gro, nous voilĂ  arrivĂ© Ă  destination. Nous avons fait deux stops grimpe sur la route. Un jour en SlovĂ©nie Ă  Misja Pec, et un jour en Croatie Ă  Vrulja. Dans ce dernier secteur j'ai essayĂ© la voie Dugi Rat 9a+ de @kruderjernej . Cependant tout Ă©tait mouillĂ©, il faudra revenir. Ce secteur a une vue exceptionnelle (photo 2 et 5). Quand nous sommes arrivĂ© Ă  la falaise principale de Tirana, Brar, tout Ă©tait dĂ©sespĂ©rĂ©ment mouillĂ© aussi. On en a profitĂ© pour grimper des voies plus facile, un 8a et 8b exceptionnels. Le vent est venu nous rejoindre et Ă  permis de sĂ©cher un peu la falaise. J'en ai profitĂ© pour sauter dans THE DREAM projet en 9b, Ă©quipĂ© par @adam.ondra (photo 1). Le potentiel est Ă©norme ici, il ne reste plus qu'Ă  Ă©quiper đŸ€™.

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